THE VECTIS SCENERY, PART I.
COMPRISING THE MOST REMARKABLE
OF
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
— “ Romantic Isle!
The pearl of Ocean, girdled in its foam.”
☞
The object of commencing our
Description of the Island at Cowes, is only for the purpose of an easy Reference:
as every feature of any prominency will be regularly noticed in succession, as
we are supposed to compass first the whole of the Coast – and then afterwards
(by making Newport our starting point,) visit the principal places in the
Interior.
k
TOWN
OF
THIS is a
convenient, busy sea-port, as well as a fashionable watering-place, occupying
the steep slope of a hill (the most northern part of the island,) opposite the
mouth of Southampton Water, and is divided from its sister town by the Medina
(or Newport) river. Its appearance from off the water is extremely pleasing, as
the quick fall of the hill gives the advantage of the houses rising very
considerably above each other, as if they were built on a succession of
terraces, intermixed with gardens, shrubberies, and groups of magnificent
trees. We confess however that this favorable impression is almost obliterated
on our first landing from the packets: as the lower streets are both narrow and
irregular, being occupied principally by tradesmen, who of course build as near
as possible to the water's edge, not only for the sake of convenient quays, but
also for the preference given by strangers to their lodgings; but the upper
part of the town is altogether as pleasant, consisting chiefly of large, respectable
lodging-houses, many of which are sumptuously furnished, and command the most
extensive prospects.
The beach consists
of shingle or small pebbles, and having a good descent, admits of excellent
bathing in almost every state of the tide: there are several machines fully
employed, and likewise hot, tepid, and other baths for invalids.
The buildings which
chiefly attract attention at
There are two
Churches (or rather chapels of ease to the parish-church of North- wood) : the
oldest standing on the summit of the hill, screened by a grove of elms ; arid
the other westward of the castle, immediately behind the bathing-machines. The
other religious structures are...a large and handsome Roman-catholic chapel,
another for Independent-presbyterians, and one for Wesleyan-methodists.——There
are several superior inns, hotels, &c.: a Mechanics' Institution, and good
circulating-libraries and reading- rooms.
The stranger at
In the vicinity of
West Cowes are several other genteel residences: particularly WESTHILL, a
charming' cottage in the Swiss taste; the grounds are not extensive, but
beautifully shaded by several groups of fine-grown trees, and adorned with
plantations and knots of flowering shrubs: it covers the slope eastward of the
town, where the high-road branches off for Newport, and is enclosed by a
light-brick wall.
MOOR-HOUSE, distinguished by its Gothic pinnacles, is a
conspicuous object, about half a mile to the south. Near the road leading to
Gurnard Bay is WOOD-VALE,
a very picturesque subject, constructed of rough native stone, and designed in
the true rural taste : it is sequestered from the public gaze by close
plantations; but standing on the brow of a steep sloping bank, is seen to advantage
from the water—of which, and the whole of the beautiful perspective of the
opposite coast, it commands a most charming view.
F For the Names of the Proprietors or present Occupiers
of the principal Country Seats and Villas, see the List at the end of the Work.
The prospect from the whole of Cowes is extremely animating', and from the upper part almost unlimited: the source of ceaseless interest is of course the busy harbour and the Solent Channel (seen here under the form of a beautiful lake); but the opposite coast also possesses no inconsiderable share of life and beauty, particularly in the direction of the well wooded banks of Southampton Water, to the town itself.
"The white sails glide along the shore,
Red streamers on the breezes play :
The boatmen ply the dashing oar,
And wide their various
freight convey."
o
Cowes owes its origin
and rise to its excellent harbour, which admits of vessels clearing-out either
to the eastward or westward on the first offer of a fair wind: "it is
as safe as any in the British Channel, and by far the most convenient for
vessels bound to Holland and the East Countries; it is therefore much frequented
by ships to repair damages sustained at sea, and to winter in, until the season
permits them to proceed on their respective voyages."
It is also the port at which the vessels of the whole island are registered.——
Besides the old dry-dock at West Cowes, another has recently been made just
above the ferry,) of a size sufficient for the reception of the largest West
India Mail Steam-packets: and there are patent slips and private dock-yards
at both towns. In the last century
several line-of-battle ships and frigates were built at
The water which
divides the two towns, though designated a River, is in fact here an arm of the
sea about a quarter of a mile across: and indifferently called Newport or the
Medina, because a stream which rises in the south, takes a due northerly
direction through Newport to Cowes, and is in its whole course nearly in the
middle of the island. The aquatic beauty
of the valley through which it glides for the last five miles is derived from
the influx of the sea-tides : and of course the only time when strangers can
avail them- selves of a trip by water to Newport is with the flood,—returning
by the ebb, after about an hour's saunter in the town : boats regularly ply the
passage; and in favorable weather it offers really a charming excursion, though
there is nothing either of the romantic or the sublime in the character of the
scenery. The banks present a pleasing
interchange of coppice and pasturing enclosures, with cottages and very large
water-mills on and near the margin ; and as the rise of the hills on either
side is bold and lofty, the eye commands in its range a great variety of
attractive objects—churches, seats, villas, farms, and cottages, more or less
sheltered by woods and plantations : while the effect of the landscape is
greatly heightened by an interesting soft perspective : and enlivened by a
variety of trading craft and pleasure-boats taking advantage of a favorable
tide.
Various plans have
been suggested for improving
As the ROYAL
YACHT-SQUADRON make Cowes their favorite rendezvous, the general gaiety of the
place is in consequence much increased, especially about the time of their
annual meeting, which is either late in August, or early in September: for as
the members attend from every part of the United Kingdom, and as this port is
also the summer-station of the Royal Thames Yacht-Club, there is then such an
assemblage of elegant pleasure-vessels of every size and rig, from a ship of
400 tons burthen to the yawl of only 10, as forms an uncommonly brilliant and
interesting spectacle. About the same time the annual REGATTA and sailing-matches take place, during which
the town is a scene
of gaiety and bustle, being
crowded with visitants from every part of the island and neighbouring coast,
should the weather then be favorable.
o
THE TOWN OF
Has nothing in
itself particularly to call a stranger's attention : but the scenery in its im-
mediate vicinity is extremely beautiful, from the number of first-rate seats
and elegant villas by which it is adorned, and the animated character of the
surrounding prospect which the hill affords:—the luxuriance of the groves and
shrubberies is astonishing, considering the sea-breeze to which they are
exposed;—in fact, this quarter possesses a degree of amenity and cheerful
attraction quite equal to any part of the island.
From an unexpected
combination of fortunate circumstances the town is looking up to be a place of
some importance in the course of a few years : the value of property is al-
ready enhanced, and general business improved.
There are several large shipwright's yards, wharfs, marine stores,
&c.—so that at particular times there is much of the bustle of a sea-port
town : there is a spacious hotel near the water, also several good lodging-
houses; an Episcopalian chapel of ease (the parish-church being two miles off,)
and places of dissenting worship. Lately a Pier has been constructed by order
of the Trinity board for the greater accommodation of Her Majesty when landing
or embarking.
EAST COWES
PARK.——This is altogether a newly created scene, which pro- mises to be in the
course of a few years, a most splendid and imposing concentration of all that
is attractive to the opulent, the fashionable, and gay; at the same time
equally inviting to those who seek health by resorting to a mild and salubrious
locality, where they can enjoy the animating pleasure of an extensive marine prospect,
combined with botanical pursuits and the enjoyment of the best company.
The formerly open
cultivated fields between Osborne and East Cowes, comprehend- ing 160 acres,
with a rise of 170 feet above the level of the sea, have been laid-out, and are
now letting'-off in small lots for the purpose of erecting above 100 detached
mansions and villas, in every variety of style ; each to be surrounded by
ornamental shrubberies, •and so ranged that an interesting sea-view will be
afforded to all. The roads are really
beautiful, and of uncommon width, extending above two miles, and the borders
planted with timber-trees of various foliage, and a profusion of flowering
shrubs. There are several lodge-entrances: a Pier for the accommodation of the
residents; and a Hotel: but the most important feature is the botanic and
pleasure garden in the centre of the Park, measuring twenty-two acres,
and for the formation and management of which an eminent professor is engaged.
As the Plan of the
Park, and terms of letting, can be seen at almost every hotel in the island,
and procured on the spot, or in London at Messrs. Brooks and Green,
Land-agents, Old Bond-street, it releases us from the necessity of giving
further particulars ; but we cannot conclude this concise account of so
magnificent an undertaking, without heartily wishing it the success it
deserves, from the liberal spirit with which it has been conducted, and the
good taste which to us appears to be displayed throughout.
o
SEATS AND VILLAS NEAR
In proceeding up
the hill by the old carriage-road, we pass on our right the villa of Mr.
Auldjo: and on the left, Slatwoods, Spring-hill, and St. Thomas,
almost secluded from public observation by close shrubberies and groups of
stately trees: these houses are respectable structures, but characterised by no
peculiarities of design: their sites however are admirable, and possess an
unrivaled view of the very interesting picture of Cowes Harbour and the
opposite coast. About half-way up, at
the lodge-entrance to East Cowes Castle, the road divides—the right-hand branch
leading to Osborne and Newport, and the left to Norris Castle.——Of the three
first-rate seats in the neighbour- hood of East Cowes....
OSBORNE is now the
principal, having been purchased by Her Majesty, together with an adjoining
estate called Barton, and other contiguous cultivated property (with the
farm-houses and cottages), extending from the sea-shore on the north for about
two miles and a half in the direction of Newport, and being at least a mile and
a half in breadth; a great portion of which is now enclosed by a park-fence,
and extensive plantations already made. As was to have been expected, the
mansion and the whole of the domain are undergoing such important improvements,
as to negative any accurate description : and therefore at present we shall
only speak generally of the merits of the locality, which possesses great
capabilities of being rendered, in our humble opinion, everyway suitable for
the marine residence of a Queen of the British Isles ; and as a peculiarly
desirable situation for the younger branches of Royalty, who can here enjoy as
it were an amphibious life, without being exposed to the rude annoyance of
vulgar curiosity. To the north-east the
grounds are bounded by a charming sheltered little creek called King's Quay,
traditionally from the fact of its having afforded concealment to King John, at
the time of his division with the barons.
Very little of the
estate, and indeed nothing of the mansion except the new prospect tower, can be
seen from the highway; but in sailing up or down the Solent Channel, between
Ryde and Cowes, it appears to great advantage, being seated at the head of an
ample lawn that gently slopes to a wide and well-wooded valley open to the sea
on the north, and hence enjoys a most animating and delightful marine prospect.
This valley terminates in a beautiful pebbly beach, which admits of landing or
embarking being easily effected, except in very boisterous weather.
The fine old
mansion of BARTON was
once the residence of the lords of the manor ; for many years it was reduced to
a farm-house, and suffered to decay ; but has recently been restored by
substantial repairs, without injuring its venerable air of antiquity.
From the interest
which this residence now acquires with the public, we are prepared to expect
that many of Our readers will feel rather disappointed at the above very brief
account of the Palace of Osborne: but surely it would be worse than ridiculous
to expatiate on the character of a place that is undergoing in almost every
feature some considerable improvements : and which probably will be subjected
to many as yet unknown mutations—for one necessary alteration often obliges
another.
NORRIS was built in
imitation of an ancient Norman castle,—massive in its construction, and
remarkable for a stern simplicity of character disdaining all minute deco-
ration ; but exhibiting a noble general design, with the merit of a very
judicious internal arrangement: it stands upon the steep descent of the most
northern point of the island, and is a conspicuous object from every part of
the Solent Channel, the north-eastern shores of the island, and the opposite
coast. The grounds are pleasingly varied, and the plantations have now arrived
to a considerable size. The stables are on a large scale, and built in a heavy
style corresponding to the mansion, being intended for the reception of
husbandry cattle, as well as the carriages and horses of a gentleman's
establishment.
EAST COWES CASTLE
is situated nearly on the brow of the hill directly over- looking the town : is
more sheltered than Norris, and distinguished by a greater light- ness of
character,—a most pleasing diversity in the form of its several towers, and
finished throughout with a neat detail: presenting towards the cardinal points
highly picturesque fronts of varied elevations.
The style is that usually called the Moorish. The west or Conservatory front is perhaps
the most beautiful: opening upon a bowling-green terrace —and through the
graduated tints of several vistas in the luxuriant plantations, are some very
pleasing catches of the more distant objects.
The north front has also a noble aspect, and looks over the beautiful
home-picture to as delightful marine scenery as can well be imagined. The
grounds fall very favorably with gentle undulations to the water, and are
happily interspersed with some stately trees; while the pleasure-garden is en-
riched by an exquisite display of magnolias and other choice flowering shrubs,
that are rarely equalled for luxuriance of growth in the open air.
Both Norris and
"Whose verdant
meshes seem to prop the walls."
The first of these
mansions was many years in building, and scarcely more than finished at the
demise of the proprietor, the late Lord Henry Seymour (1831): subsequently it
was chosen for the summer-residence of their R.H. the Duchess of Kent and the
Princess Victoria : and in 1839 purchased on very moderate terms by R. Bell,
esq., the present proprietor. The latter mansion was also the production of a
considerable period, having received successive additions as fancy dictated, by
the late celebrated architect, John Nash, esq. (ob. 1835), who made it
his favorite residence for about forty years : it was sold by his executors to
the late Earl Shannon ; and on that nobleman's death, purchased by N. Barwell,
esq.
o
[This View gives the appearance of OSBORNE Estate at the time HER
MAJESTY purchased it. To attempt any
representation of the Mansion now erecting (or indeed even of the grounds,)
would, from its very unfinished state, be worse than useless, as giving' a deceptive
idea of what in all probability will be a most magnificent edifice. Moreover, we understand Her Majesty has
expressed herself decidedly adverse to any drawing being made of it till its
completion : and though the reader may see Views purporting to represent
"the New Palace of Osborne," we prefer, for the reasons above stated,
to defer our new view for what (judging from the rapidity with which the
building operations are carried on,) will be but a short time.]
THE TOWN OF
————
THIS delightful
watering-place is situated opposite Portsmouth, and being but little more than
five miles across, is the shortest regular passage to the island: to this
circum- stance, and the charming accommodations of the Pier, the town is
principally indebted for its progressive extension and present prosperity: not
but it possesses other attractive advantages,—such as the beauty of the
locality, and the respectability of the many families who make it their winter
as well as summer residence. About half a century back it consisted of two
distinct hamlets, with several fields and groves intervening (and thence
respectively distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde); but such has been the
rapid and constant increase of buildings that they have long since been united
: and now completely cover the two sides of a lofty hill, on the north sloping
to the sea, and on the east falling gradually into a beautiful retiring valley.
Most of the streets are very open and well- paved, regularly disposed (crossing
at right angles), and the principal ones run parallel almost in a direct line
to the beach, thus affording the advantage of a wide and animating prospect,
especially of that constant source of interest and beauty, THE SOLENT CHANNEL, and above 40 miles of the opposite coast. The greater part of the houses are quite
modern, more or less tastefully built, and their agreeable appearance increased
by being profusely adorned with flowering shrubs intermixed with many
well-grown trees.
Ryde is extending
in every direction: and if building continue to be carried on for a few years
more with the same spirit which it has been of late, will be by much the
largest town in the island; and must prove a formidable rival to the most
fashionable watering- places in the kingdom. For religious worship there
are....three episcopal chapels of ease (Ryde being in the parish of Newchurch);
and chapels for Wesleyans, Independents, and Roman-catholics.
The lodging-houses
are very numerous, and in every variety of accommodation, from the snug cottage
at about thirty shillings per week, to the spacious mansion from 15 to 25
guineas weekly during the best part of the season. There are several Hotels and
Inns, of which the Pier—Yelf's—and the Kent are the principal: excellent
circulating-libraries reading-rooms, and a Mechanics' Institution: and a neat
little theatre. The shops are numerous, in every branch of business, and many
of them fitted-up in a very imposing style.
A most commodious
Market and Town-house was constructed a few years since at a great expense; but
many perhaps may deem it much too magnificent for the present population and
demands of the place: still, however, it proves the spirited conduct of the
inhabitants in regard to local improvements.
The ROYAL VICTORIA ARCADE is another handsome building, containing
fourteen shops, and a large exhibition-room fitted-up in a neat style,—the
whole being estimated to have cost £. 10,000.
Near the
Market-house, and just below the oldest church, is a very magnificent line of
buildings called "the Terrace," consisting of uniformly large and
elegant houses, having a beautiful lawn-like field sloping to the water in
front, adorned with several well-grown
oaks and elms. There is likewise,
on the west side of the town, a most handsome square, comprising a variety of
tastefully embellished houses : and indeed in every direction may be seen
first-rate mansions constructing—tenants being found for most of them even
before they are completed.
Formerly it was an
easy task to point out distinctly to the stranger all the principal
residences in and near Ryde : we had then only to name WESTMONT, standing on the top of the hill—RYDE HOUSE, a little to the westward—and the
unostentatious Villas of Earl Spencer and the Duke of Buckingham : but now it
would be an absurd attempt to enumerate all the attractive buildings, and at
the same time to bestow on each sufficient description to enable a stranger to
distinguish one from the other.
THE PIER.
This invaluable
accession to Ryde is firmly constructed of timber, and stretches out to the
uncommon length of 2240 feet, exclusive of the spacious head; thus affording a
most charming promenade, especially to convalescents who require the
invigorating sea-breeze.
It was commenced in
the year 1813, and opened in the following year, the necessary funds having
been raised by public subscription in shares of £.50 each : but it has since
been lengthened one thousand feet, vis. 500 in the year 1824, and as many more
in 1833: and in 1842 it received the splendid improvement of anew head, made
sufficiently large to admit several vessels laying alongside at the same time.
As yet it has not proved a very lucrative speculation to the shareholders
(though indispensable to the town): not having paid on an average of several
years more than 2^ or 3 per cent.
The reader will
readily appreciate the value of the Pier, in affording the most comfortable
facilities for passengers landing or embarking in all states of the tide,—when
he is told that previous to its erection, the usual custom was (ex- cept during
the very short interval of high water,) for passengers to be crammed into a
common luggage-cart, and then drawn for a considerable distance through the
waves by a horse, till it reached a depth sufficient for a boat to float
alongside, into which they were then transferred, and conveyed off to the
packet. Now this united cart and boat
process of landing or embarking certainly could not be very inviting at the
best of times : but it was really terrific to weak and timid persons during the
concurrence of a fresh gale, a heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its lowest
ebb !— to say nothing of the horrors of a dark and squally night.
The SHORE is now covered with a thick and increasing-
layer of fine white sand, sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages, and which
is found to be extremely pleasant when bathing, for which there are many
well-attended machines: it has however so little des- cent, that at low water
it becomes almost an extensive flat; and after being exposed seven or eight
hours to a powerful sun in calm weather, renders the sea as it flows nearly
equal to a warm bath. As the ebbing tide leaves the sand in a perfectly firm
state for walking, a saunter on the strand eastward of the Pier is the most
delightful imaginable on a fine summer's day, if we wish "to enjoy a near
view of the waves in all their varieties breaking on the shore, or the
enchanting sound of their murmurs as they die away on the beach :" the
greater part of it is likewise beautifully fringed with overhanging woods; and
interspersed with fragments and masses of rock, some bare, and others
picturesquely enveloped in weeds.
—————"The wind was hush'd,
And to the beach, each slowly lifted wave,
Creeping with silver curl, just kiss'd the shore,
And slept in
silence."
The Royal
Victoria Yacht Club, formed at
Ryde in the summer of 1845, already numbers many distinguished members, and
promises to rival any similar society in the kingdom: the vessels are of almost
every size and rig, including several large wherries (of from 20 to 30 tons
each),—a species of craft for which the local watermen have long been noted,
and which are pronounced by nautical men to be admirable sea-boats. The
Club-house is a large and handsome building, on the shore west of the Pier.
The Ryde Regatta was originally established for
the laudable purpose of giving encouragement to the skilful and deserving
watermen of the place: and now the presence of a local Yacht-club must of
course give increased variety and interest to the amusements. On these festive
occasions the Pier is in its whole length crowded with well-dressed per- sons
assembled from both town and country: which, with the gay appearance of the
numerous boats, steam-packets, and pleasure-vessels sporting about in every
direction : the grand display of colors, firing of signal guns, and the playing
of music, with the sprightly bustle of the competitors,—altogether produce a
most animated and brilliant scene.
——E——
THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE.
In the neighbourhood
of Ryde are the finest woods in the whole island, enlivened by the presence of
many gentlemen's seats which enjoy the most delightful situations : such
are....St. John's—Appley—St. Clare—Puckpool—Fairy-hill—Sea-grove—and the
Priory, to the eastward: Westmont—Ryde House—Stonepits—Brookfield—Binstead—and
Quarr, to the westward : and several others of less note, which render the
environs exceedingly pleasant: indeed the rapid increase of the town itself,
and the many tasty villas that are continually rising in its immediate
vicinity, prove how much this part of the island is admired.
Appley is a most lovely marine villa about
half a mile from Ryde, below
St. clare is another beautiful marine
villa eastward of Appley, of considerable dimensions, built in the Gothic
taste, and adorned with a neat tower: its locality is scarcely surpassed by any
of the felicitous sites along this part of the coast.
Puckpool is also a very pleasant spot
contiguous to St. Clare, distinguished by the erection of a handsome Swiss Cottage,
nothing- of which however can be seen, except on being admitted within the
grounds.
We next come to a
very cheerful village called SPRING-VALE, consisting of lodging-houses
newly-built along the beach.
Less than half a
mile further is another well-situated hamlet on the shore called SEA-VIEW,
where nearly every cottage is furnished for lodgings. Close by are two delightful villas : FAIRY-HILL, a respectable brick mansion on a commanding
site ; the ground falling in varied slopes to the sea, finely interspersed with
trees :—and on the east side of the lane is another equally charming, and very
appropriately called SEA-GROVE.
THE PRIORY is three
miles from Ryde. This beautiful domain
takes its name from having been the site of a cell to an abbey in
BINSTEAD, about a
mile westward of Ryde, affords a very delightful walk across the fields. We
pass on our left, STONEPITS and BROOKFIELD
Cottages, the new Parson- age, and several other tasty genteel dwellings: and
on the right, the parish-church (lately rebuilt). To the north and west of the cemetery are
the rural cottages of J. Fleming, esq., standing in the midst of grounds long
celebrated for their picturesque beauty. Our walk may be extended with much
pleasure by following- the gravel-path through the woods to QUARR....
" Whose mouldering abbey-walls o'erhang the glade,
And oaks coeval spread
a mournful shade."
THE PROSPECT from Ryde
and its vicinity.——As the amenity of every situation much depends upon the
range and beauty of the View which it commands, we here give a faint sketch of
that obtained from this quarter of the island,—allowing of course greater
amplitude to those houses which enjoy the higher sites: by which, however
imperfect, it will be seen that few prospects in England can surpass this,
perhaps even in point of pleasing composition,—but certainly not as a
perpetual source of the most agreeable observation.
The foreground of
the Pier generally presents a most animated picture,—crowded with promenading
fashionables, and surrounded by numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other
craft, at anchor or gaily sailing about; a busy scene which forms a striking
contrast to the quiet sylvan charms of the home-coast from Puckpool to Osborne
and Norris Point, embellished by several delightful seats and villas. We have the Solent Channel, seen from here
to peculiar advantage,—on the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble
river and on the other expanding and uniting with the open sea. The far-famed anchorage of Spithead occupies
the centre, with St. Helen's to the eastward for ships of war: and westward,
the Motherbank and Stoke's Bay, for merchantmen and colliers; every day
increasing or diminishing in number, and hourly altering their position with
the changing tides. On the opposite
nearest shore, contiguous to Monkton Fort, is a splendid range of houses called
Anglesea Villa; close behind, the immense mass of brick buildings that form the
grand naval hospital of Haslar, with the town of Gosport in the rear; opposite
which are the celebrated fortifications of Portsmouth, with its noble harbour
affording calm security to the maritime glory of England: Southsea Castle
stands a little to the eastward, and beyond that is the low level of Hayling
Island.
The line of
Portsdown Hills, on one of which is Nelson's monumental pillar, usually bounds
the view to the north ; but in clear weathet our range of perspective embraces
a portion of the South Downs which is crossed by the London road near
Petersfield ; and on the left the beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water
to the town itself, backed by the woodland heights of New Forest—while to the
right it ex- tends to the spire of Chichester Cathedral; and with the aid of a
glass even to the azure promontory of Beachy Head.
From Ryde to St. Helen's and Bembridge.
The reader having
been conducted along the shore as far as the Priory, we shall now take
him by the high-road to St. Helen's, Bembridge, &c.
Immediately on
leaving Ryde we descend into a narrow valley, and then mount the lull on which
stands St. John’s (passing on our right a hamlet called OAK-FIELD); the road making several sudden turnings
under the shade of various lofty trees—of which the silver fir is so remarkably
handsome as to call for general admiration, peering from 20 to 30 feet above
the rest.——The road here divides; the branch on our right leading direct to
Brading.
Looking towards the
sea, the
ST. HELEN's GREEN.
This is a populous
village about four miles east of Ryde, composed of cottages standing
principally round a large verdant square.
The only remarkable object is the old Tower of the original
parish-church, which stands upon the beach, still struggling against the
further encroachments of the sea : which, it appears, had so far advanced upon
the cemetery in the beginning of the last century, as to oblige the inhabitants
to build another place of worship in a more secure situation, which we passed
on the road from Ryde. The old tower has the addition of a very high facing of
brick-work, which is painted white, and is preserved for the purpose of a
land-mark to ships entering the roadsted.
FShould the weather prove unfavorable for going
over to Bembridge, or the party change their determination as to the route,
they can run from St. Helen's by a good road to Eroding, and thence proceed to
Shanklin, &c. The Cliffs of
Bembridge, being the scenery which particularly claims attention, offer to
parties staying at Ryde an excellent day's trip, especially if they decline
going to Freshwater.
Extends three miles
by about one broad; and previous to the year 1830, few spots in the kingdom
could have been more congenial to the lovers of quiet seclusion, for it was
rarely visited by tourists in consequence of there being no regular horse-boat
passage across the mouth of Brading haven.
But though sequestered, it was far from being a dull situation,. as it
enjoys the most enlivened and extensive marine prospects, as well as landscape
scenery of an extremely cheerful and picturesque description.
THE VILLAGE of Bembridge at the time alluded to, was
inhabited principally by pilots and their families: when, on a sudden, an
impetus was given to building, through the active and judicious exertions of a
resident gentleman possessed of considerable landed property. To supply the
desideratum of a regular passage by a good horse-boat as well as by ferry, was
among the first means adopted to raise the place from its obscurity ; very
convenient roads were laid-out and the old ones improved :. land disposed of on
eligible terms; a quantity of trees and shrubs planted about; a large hotel
built; and in a short time, by the aid of a public subscription, the
inhabitants had the important advantage of a commodious church. In short, it has risen to the rank of a
pretty little town: the lodging-houses are of all grades; and several most
respectable families have given it the preference for their occasional or
permanent residence, notwithstanding the many attractive places throughout the
island that have recently been converted for building speculations.
It has already been
mentioned, that a range of chalk hills stretch from east to west the whole
length of the island,—the termination on the east being known by the general
designation of THE CULVER CLIFFS,* at Bembridge; while the Freshwater cliffs
and the Needle Rocks form the western boundary. It is remarkable, that at both
points the scenery is very similar: the chalky precipices soaring to a sublime
elevation, the inclination dipping north, and accompanied by a beautiful
display of variously colored earth and sand in vertical strata.
WHITE-CLIFF BAY† (distant about two miles from the ferry,) is
recommended to the attention of the tourist, as affording a fair specimen of
this sublime description of scenery, and which can be very conveniently
visited. The noble range of cliffs which extend towards Sandown are
certainly the most interesting ; but these can be visited safely only in a
boat: it is highly dangerous for any party to attempt proceeding far on a rocky
shore, unless they be certain that the tide is not more than about
ha1f-ebb.||
In the face of the cliffs looking towards Shanklin, there is a small cavern
about thirty feet below the top, called the HERMIT'S HOLE.
*"Thev are called
CULVER from the Saxon Culppe, a pigeon ; and the number of those birds
that harbour there well entitle it to the name of the Pigeon cliff." They were likewise famous in the time of
Queen Elizabeth for a particular breed of hawks.
† If the reader be
familiar with the tract of "the Negro Servant," written by the
late Rev. LEGH RICHMOND, this spot will afford him additional
pleasure: for it was here that he unexpectedly met with his young convert to
Christianity reading his Bible—a circumstance which is very affectingly
described.——See Brannon's Edition of the rev. gentleman's Description of the
Isle of Wight.
|| An instance of the
danger of a heedless saunter under these precipices occurred a few years ago,
tea family consisting of a lady, her four daughters, and a maid-servant. They were lodging at the time at Shanklin ;
and were extremely fond of taking exercise on the sands. On one occasion, they were led by their admiration
of the coast to extend their morning-walk as far as the chalk-cliffs beyond
Sandown: and it being low water at the time, had proceeded a considerable
distance before they noticed the warning to retreat— the tide had for some
time begun to flow! Alarmed at
their dangerous situation, they made the utmost exertions to escape ; but their
progress over the rocks could be but slow: the water was rapidly gaining on
them,—and they must inevitably have perished, had it not been for the
providential circumstance of their having been descried by some fishermen in
the bay, who instantly hastened to their relief.
Before we take our
leave of the Peninsula of Bembridge, we will extract from a well- known author
the following minute and beautiful description of the prospect which is gained
from the summit of the down stretching towards Yaverland :—
" The road that I
took lay over a lofty down or hill, which commands a prospect of scenery seldom
equalled for beauty and magnificence. On the left, extended a beautiful tract
of land, intersected by a large arm of the sea, which at high water forms a
broad lake or haven.* Woods, villages, cottages, and churches, surrounded it in
most pleasing variety of prospect.
Beyond this lay a large fleet of ships of war, and not far from it
another of merchantmen, both safe at anchor, and covering a tract of several
miles in extent. Beyond this again, I saw the fortifications, dock-yards, and
extensive edifices of a large sea-port town.——On my right-hand, to the south
and south-east, the unbounded ocean displayed its mighty waves, covered with
vessels of every size, sailing in all directions. To the south-west, extended a beautiful
semi-circular bay of nine or ten miles in circumference, bounded by high cliffs
of white, red, and brown colored earths. Beyond this lay a range of hills,
whose tops are often buried in cloudy mists, but which now appeared clear and
distinct. This chain of hills, meeting
with another from the north, bounds a large fruitful vale, whose fields, now
ripe for harvest, proclaimed the goodness of God in the rich provision which He
makes for the sons of men.——The whole scene, in every direction, was grand and
impressive."——REV.
L. RICHMOND.
Is a small
borough-town, very agreeably situated about four miles S.E. from Ryde, and
surrounded by the park and extensive woods of Nunwell: it comprises little more
than one long village-street, containing two inns, some good shops, and a few
respectable lodging-houses.
The church is the
oldest in the island, dating its erection in the beginning of the eighth
century: the interior marks its antiquity; and the monuments which it contains
to the memory of Sir William and Sir John Oglander, whose figures are carved in
wood, together with the various ancient inscriptions on the brass tablets and
tomb-stones, are well worth seeing; and will prove highly interesting to those
who are versed in the ancient , styles of orthography and writing.
"On digging some
graves in that part of the church called the minster, which had been the
receptacle of the dead before the spread of Christianity, and also in the
church-yard, skeletons of enormous size have been discovered. It has reasonably
been conjectured, they were the remains of ancient Saxons, and that policy led
the Christian missionaries to fix on the ground held sacred by their heathen
hearers, for the erection of a building consecrated to the worship of the
cross." Some pleasing views of
the country and haven are presented from the church-yard: and if the tourist
feel any interest in the examination of tomb-stone inscriptions, he will here
find several very well written; for example:
ON MRS. ANN BERRY.
Forgive, blest shade! The
tributary tear
That mourns thy absence from
a world like this
Forgive the wish that would
have kept thee here
And staid thy progress to
the seats of bliss
No more confined to
grov'ling scenes of night
No more a tenant pent in
mortal clay,—
Now should we rather hail
thy glorious flight,
And trace thy journey to the
realms of day."
To
the Memory of "LITTLE JANE”
Ye who delight the
pow'r of GOD to trace,,
And mark with joy each
monument of grace,
Tread lightly o'er this
grave, as ye explore
"The short and
simple Annals of the Poor."
A Child reposes underneath this sod,
A Child to mem'ry dear, and dear to GOD ;
Rejoice ! yet shed the sympathetic tear,
Jane, " the Young Cottager," lies buried here.
BRADING HAVEN,
which at high water appears a beautiful lake, contains upwards of 800 acres of
sand and oozy ground, covered every tide by the sea, which enters through a
narrow inlet at St. Helen's, near Duver Point.
The hope of
recovering- so valuable a tract of land, gave birth to several unsuccessful
attempts. The famous Sir Hugh Middleton
(projector of the New River to London,) once engaged in the undertaking, and
succeeded for a short time, by means of a bank of peculiar construction: but
the sea brought up so much ooze, sand, and weeds, as to choke up the passage
for the discharge of the fresh water, which accumulating in a wet season and a
high spring-tide, the waters met, and made an irreparable breach. Thus ended an
expensive project, which cost altogether about £.7000. And after all, the
nature of the ground did not answer the expectations of the speculators: for
though that part adjoining Brading proved tolerably good, nearly one-half of it
was found to be a light running sand : nevertheless an incontestible evidence
appeared, in the discovery of a well cased with stone, near the middle
of the haven, that it had formerly been in a very different state; though
neither history nor tradition records the period when so extraordinary a change
must have taken place.
Half a mile from
Brading is NUNWELL, the seat of Sir William Oglander, bart., whose ancestors
came over from
—^,—
YAVERLAND is a
small village, one mile from Brading, and three from Bembridge ferry. The
little parish-church is of considerable antiquity, having been built in the
13th century, and still retains many perfect pieces of its original
architecture: being almost lost in an over-arching grove of magnificent elms,
it forms a very pretty composition with an adjoining farm-house, which is a
large and respectable ancient building. About a quarter of a mile further
appears the Parsonage, built in the Gothic style, and seated on a small
elevated lawn, and certainly nothing can be at once more chaste and appropriate
for a clerical residence. We next pass...
SANDOWN FORT, a
low, quadrangular fortification, flanked with a bastion at each angle, and
surrounded with a wet fosse: in time of war it was well manned, and is still
kept in repair: being the only fortress in the island at all likely to be
useful as a military post. The
complexion of the country and the character of the views now begin to change,
every tree and shrub showing symptoms of their exposure to a sea-breeze: here
we have before us a noble bay, formed by a bold sweep of shore of six or eight
miles extent, terminated to the east of Shanklin by the towering precipices of
Dunnose, and to the north by the white Culver Cliffs.
The
—<>-<>-<>—
SHANKLIN.
THIS village ranks
with the most favored spots of the island, equally for its happy locality and a
romantic CHINE; and being seated in the bosom of a fertile valley opening to
the sea, but at an elevation of nearly 300 feet, it enjoys the additional
advantage of a very animated marine prospect.
The steep slopes of the hills by which it is almost surrounded, are
beautifully checquered with copse-wood and hanging groves; while pasturage and
cultivation extend their cheerful influence throughout the valley. Every
cottage however humble, has either the ornament of some noble group of trees,
or is embellished with a profusion of fragrant shrubs and flowers. The cliffs of the shore too are particularly
interesting, consisting of sublime precipices of variegated sandrock that
extend for several miles: and the beach is principally of a dark firm sand,
interspersed with masses of rock, extremely pleasant for recreation, either
walking or riding.
With such united
attractions for the enjoyment of rural life and occasional retirement, it was
to be expected that the prevailing taste for summer rustication would soon lead
to the increase both of genteel lodging-houses and private residences. Such has
proved the case, and has also led to the establishment of a second Hotel: an
entirely new hamlet called GATTEN has likewise sprung up at the north entrance to the village :-—but as
we presume -; that the object of a stranger's visit to Shanklin is to see the
natural beauties of the place, it would be trifling to detain him longer with a
Directory account of the several houses.
The proper road to the chine is half-way down the hill as we enter the village from Ryde. We soon reach the sea-cliffs; and turning suddenly on our right, pass under the arms of a fine old oak which overshadows the public-house; and then wind our way down to the beach. Here also are several new houses, built principally for summer-lodgings, rather r